Las Canteras (Adams Morgan, 2/26/09) – Definitely Better Than Last Time

It is one of the biggest culinary mysteries to me in the DMV area. I’ve heard for probably a decade now that we have in our backyard some of the greatest Peruvian food this side of Machu Piccho, but everything I’ve tasted has been awful. Not just mediocre. AWFUL. My first experience was at a place in some urban sprawl section of Alexandria where my “traditional” dish came to the table as a piece of dry chicken served over white rice and french fries. No sauce, no salt, no spices. Just chicken, rice and french fries.

Dating J has made my general dislike for Peruvian food a little difficult. She loves it and insists that there are great places all around. We went to a rotisserie place up in Silver Spring that she adores, but, again, I thought it was so-so. I mean, it’s chicken. On another occasion, she took me to Las Canteras in Adams Morgan, where I had food so poor that I have made a point to comment on it each time I pass the place. It was dry and boring and just bleh.

Well, J and I were going out with some friend for salsa dancing (1,2,3. 5,6,7. 1,2,3. 5,6,7.), and, to “get in the mood,” J insisted that we return to the scene of the crime at Las Canteras. I decided, however, to keep an open mind and order under the instruction of one of our friends who, as it happens, has been spending a lot of time in Peru for work. Tough life.

On his recommendation, I started with the Pisco Sour. I don’t know who first thought to put whipped egg whites in a drink, but I must say that I found it quite pleasant. It was a little strong for my taste, but I’m a big wuss. The addition of the cinnamon and the bitters made it actually reminiscent of an old fashion…sort of. So far, so good.

My first course was the classic ceviche - a traditional criollo of raw, lime juice-marinated white fish. It. Was. Awesome. Really, really good. Tangy and spicy. The texture was perfect, especially with the addition of the corn and whatever that orange stuff in the middle was. It was a very different taste than I’m used to with Peruvian food – in large part because it had taste! I was so inspired by this dish that I immediately began to plan my own ceviche experiments (more on that to come in later posts).

For my entre, I accidentally reordered the same dish that had so put me off on our last visit. This time, however, it hit the mark. I had the Trio De Anticuchos, which consisted of marinated chicken, beef and beef heart, tenderized “Peruvian style.” It was served on a bed of mashed potatoes with gigantic corn kernels and ensalada criolla. I will say that the meat was a little tough, as I don’t think they’re into medium rare at Las Canteras. But, overall, the dish was great. The heart was really delicious with the mashed potatoes. The salad was tart and refreshing. And the giant corn was (once I added some salt) a really great compliment to the entire dish.

So there you go. I no longer despise Peruvian food. It’s still on probation, but a few more good experiences like this one and I might even find myself a fan. If you’re in Adam’s Morgan and itching for some fish cooked via acid, stop by Las Canteras. Tell them I sent you. It won’t get you anything, but it will certainly confuse them.