Sonoma Restaurant and Wine Bar (Capital Hill, 03/02/09) – A Sharp Decline

It was two years ago when some of my colleagues suggested that we hit Sonoma, a wine bar/restaurant, for some after-work relaxation. The suggestion itself was a little dangerous as we private-firm lawyer types rarely rub elbows with the Capital Hill crowd. While they’re busy hanging out at the Hawk n’ Dove or Bistro Bis, we’re at Tenh Pen or Lima Bar. But heading into “their” territory proved a fruitful journey, as Sonoma proved the perfect place for a gathering, complete with great food, interesting wines and a really cool atmosphere.

A few months after my first visit, J and I took her sister to this little gem. It was the first time I had met her, and Sonoma was a great place to break a lot of ice. We feasted on a wide variety of cheeses, charcuterie and local meats, fishes and vegetables. My absolute favorite item on the menu was their truffle-poached peaches, which were even more interesting than they sound. I don’t know if they used really young peaches or what, but they looked and had the texture of olives, while still tasting like peaches. Very strange but very, very good.

And so it should have been a sign when, after returning to the restaurant following a 2-year hiatus, J and I ordered the truffle-poached peaches just to be informed that they were no longer available. The waitress informed us that people are constantly asking for them, so why the hell don’t they bring them back?!

Anyway, despite the lack of peaches, the place felt very much as we remembered. It’s ultra-hip with some two-tops as well as some big tables perfect for groups of friends. It has a modern feel but somehow maintains its warmth. The crowd is diverse and of all ages. J and I actually had a really, really nice time.

The only problem was, unfortunately, the food. We started with a cheese plate, ordering just two cheeses – a “semi-soft” mona sheep’s cheese and a truffle tremor goat cheese. Well, they were out of the tremor. So the waitress suggested the chevre, and we bit. When they came to the table, I was surprised to see that the mona was FAR from semi-soft. Whereas I was expecting something along the lines of a sheep’s camembert, it had more the texture (and taste) of parmesan. They’re menu had given the worst description ever. It was fine, just not what I was hoping for.

For a starter, I opted for the calamari salad. As presented, it was beautiful – full of color and texture. The taste, however, was really, really flat. The sauce which looked to have so much promise didn’t bring any acidity to the dish and barely any heat. The garbanzos were hard as little pebbles and had about as much taste. The squid itself was decent, but just not very interesting. There was so much potential with this dish, but it just fell short at every level.

For my main course, I accept full responsibility for a poor choice. You know, I read chicken and parmesan, but it just didn’t register as chicken parmesan. I don’t know why. Maybe I just didn’t expect to be served boring Italian food at place known for its unique approach. But when it came to the table, I was immediately put off. The chicken was severely overcooked – dry even in the middle of that excessive mountain of tomato sauce. The only real highlights from the dish were the toasted bread served on the side and the fresh mozzarella melted on top. Otherwise, it was boring and, to be honest, pretty poor tasting.

Let me qualify and perhaps give an explanation. The creators of Sonoma have jumped whole-heartedly onto the locally-grown food bandwagon. It’s a great idea both for its economic impact on local food providers and for its environmental sustainability. It is a noble venture and one I absolutely support. The problem is, it’s March, and there isn’t a lot of food growing in March. Places like Sonoma, deeply committed to the locally-grown concept, are at a distinct disadvantage in the winter months. This doesn’t excuse overcooked chicken or the NINETEEN DOLLARS they tried to charge us for a glass of wine (apparently, ½ glasses are more reasonably priced, but who orders ½ of a glass?), but it at least accounts for the flat tastes. I am absolutely not giving up on this restaurant, and I’m excited to try it again in the summer. But I’m a little more skeptical now that some of the halo has disappeared. We shall see.